Thursday, November 25, 2010
Wednesday 27th October - Jaipur to Delhi
Just a random collection of shots - showing some of the places and people we have seen over the past 11 days.
We had a free morning in Jaipur before returning to Delhi by coach this afternoon. We arrived in the rush hour - adding at least an hour on to an already long journey! Once again we were entertained (?) by the apparent lack of any semblance of road etiquette.
Evening meal in the hotel, and an early night in preparation for our flight home tomorrow.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Monday 25th October - Jaipur
Half day tour seeing the highlights of the "pink" city of Jaipur. This involved a visit to Jaipur Palace, and Jantar Mantar - an impressive observatory.
Sunday 24th October - Fatehpur Sikri
We left Agra en route for Jaipur this morning. On our way out of the city, we saw a train stopped on a bridge over the road - and couldn't understand why the road traffic appeared to be waiting for the train to move on before negotiating their way under the bridge. Our guide explained that the bridge was an open structure, and the people underneath were mindful of the fact that those on the train may well need to relieve themselves .........
Later on, we saw passengers sitting on the top, and between the carriages of a train travelling at considerable speed - well, there aren't any ticket inspectors up there!
Fatehpur Sikri is a city which was built in 1561, and abandoned some 15 years later - possibly due to lack of water. There seem to be one or two people drifting back there now.
This was our first encounter with snake charmers - there were plenty of hawkers as well.
We then drove on to Jaipur, stopping at a roadhouse on the way. Road rules seem to be open to different interpretations, with overtaking and undertaking quite acceptable. All lorries have a sign (by law) on the back - saying "Sound your horn", so it was impossible to sleep through the chaos. All manner of vehicles were on the road, with an occasional tractor livening up the proceedings by heading towards us on OUR side of the dual carriageway. Buses, cycles, motorcycles, jeeps, lorries - many of them overloaded with goods (or people) - made for a colourful scene.
Later on, we saw passengers sitting on the top, and between the carriages of a train travelling at considerable speed - well, there aren't any ticket inspectors up there!
Fatehpur Sikri is a city which was built in 1561, and abandoned some 15 years later - possibly due to lack of water. There seem to be one or two people drifting back there now.
This is in the Court of Public Justice. Those found guilty placed their head on the stone, and the elephants were trained to apply increasing pressure with a foot until ..........
This was our first encounter with snake charmers - there were plenty of hawkers as well.
We had lunch at a very modern hotel in Bharatpur - which was quite a contrast to the town itself. We found out that there is a large nature reserve close by - famous for the number of species of rare birds found there. The hotel is popular with "twitchers".
We then drove on to Jaipur, stopping at a roadhouse on the way. Road rules seem to be open to different interpretations, with overtaking and undertaking quite acceptable. All lorries have a sign (by law) on the back - saying "Sound your horn", so it was impossible to sleep through the chaos. All manner of vehicles were on the road, with an occasional tractor livening up the proceedings by heading towards us on OUR side of the dual carriageway. Buses, cycles, motorcycles, jeeps, lorries - many of them overloaded with goods (or people) - made for a colourful scene.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Saturday 23rd October - The Taj Mahal
We arrive in Agra at about 8.30 and head to the hotel to freshen up before our visit to the Taj Mahal. We travel there by coach and when we transfer to the electric buses for the final km before the Taj, we are pestered by hawkers - many with alarming deformities and disabilities (elephantiasis, leprosy etc etc). They are selling guidebooks, postcards and other cheap goods - starting at grossly inflated prices, but soon dropping to more realistic levels. They are generally excluded from the sites themselves but are ever present as you queue to get in - and around the coaches as you arrive and leave. They are incredibly persistent - and blight much of the rest of our "sightseeing" holiday.
The Taj itself is an amazing sight - but exactly as you see it in a 1000 photos and guidebooks. Slightly disappointing was the lack of water in the ornamental lakes - so no romantic reflections in the photographs. Inevitably, it is incredibly busy with thousands queuing to see inside the main tomb. Its also pretty hot .......
The symmetry of these places is absolutely amazing !!
We returned to our hotel for room allocation and to freshen up, and then later in the afternoon visited the Agra Fort.
Shah Jahan, who had the Taj Mahal built for his wife (who died giving birth to their 14th child!), was eventually imprisoned in the Agra Fort, and spent the last 6 years of his life gazing at the view below .....
On the way back to the hotel, we visited a workshop to see how Indian marble can be inlaid with precious stones - a fascinating process. Unfortunately, the visit turned into another high pressure retail opportunity - rather taking the edge off the experience.
The evening meal was disappointing - little choice and lukewarm food. The attitude of the staff did not help!!
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Friday 22nd October - Return to Delhi
The fact that our luggage was transferred direct to Agra, and we weren't re-united with it in Delhi tonight upset the equilibrium of some members of the GRJ party today.
Only about half the group opted for the return trip to Kalka by toy train - the rest deciding to spend an extra morning in Shimla followed by an afternoon taxi to Kalka station (the journey taking less than half the time of the train).
The guy in the photo below is one of the reasons why we came on this trip. Maqsood featured in the TV programmes on "Indian Hill Railways" broadcast earlier in the year, which prompted our search for a holiday to visit the area. He is a 90 year old station porter at Shimla who has spent many years carrying unfeasible loads, often on his head, to and from the station. He seems well aware of his new-found fame, and now probably makes more money from posing for photographs than carrying loads! Well-earned retirement long overdue.
The 10.20 Himalayan Queen service to Kalka
We were joined on the train by a group of friendly and giggly Japanese ladies (of a certain age!), whose local guide out-negotiated ours for a space in our carriage. They only went 40 minutes down the line, but supplied sweets and chocolates, and insisted on getting Robert's autograph.
Great photo - Thanks Dave!
The photo below (thanks Keith) shows Barog tunnel - the longest on the line. Construction of the original tunnel started at both ends - and unfortunately did NOT meet up in the middle. The chief engineer subsequently committed suicide - and this new tunnel was successfully completed later.
In the later stages of the journey, the skies darkened and we had a spectacular thunderstorm - with strong winds and heavy rain. As we approached Kalka, the train stopped while fallen trees and branches were cleared from the line. We eventually arrived at around 4pm.
The Shatabdi Express service to Delhi left at around 6pm, and we eventually got back to the hotel at 11.30.
Delhi had also experienced unseasonal heavy rain this evening - leading to headlines in the local paper "DELHI DRENCHED ON FREAKY FRIDAY" with photos showing areas of severe waterlogging - and uprooted traffic lights in the city.
An early morning call was set for 4.30 - we leave at 5.20 for the train to Agra!
Only about half the group opted for the return trip to Kalka by toy train - the rest deciding to spend an extra morning in Shimla followed by an afternoon taxi to Kalka station (the journey taking less than half the time of the train).
The guy in the photo below is one of the reasons why we came on this trip. Maqsood featured in the TV programmes on "Indian Hill Railways" broadcast earlier in the year, which prompted our search for a holiday to visit the area. He is a 90 year old station porter at Shimla who has spent many years carrying unfeasible loads, often on his head, to and from the station. He seems well aware of his new-found fame, and now probably makes more money from posing for photographs than carrying loads! Well-earned retirement long overdue.
The 10.20 Himalayan Queen service to Kalka
We were joined on the train by a group of friendly and giggly Japanese ladies (of a certain age!), whose local guide out-negotiated ours for a space in our carriage. They only went 40 minutes down the line, but supplied sweets and chocolates, and insisted on getting Robert's autograph.
Great photo - Thanks Dave!
The photo below (thanks Keith) shows Barog tunnel - the longest on the line. Construction of the original tunnel started at both ends - and unfortunately did NOT meet up in the middle. The chief engineer subsequently committed suicide - and this new tunnel was successfully completed later.
In the later stages of the journey, the skies darkened and we had a spectacular thunderstorm - with strong winds and heavy rain. As we approached Kalka, the train stopped while fallen trees and branches were cleared from the line. We eventually arrived at around 4pm.
The Shatabdi Express service to Delhi left at around 6pm, and we eventually got back to the hotel at 11.30.
Delhi had also experienced unseasonal heavy rain this evening - leading to headlines in the local paper "DELHI DRENCHED ON FREAKY FRIDAY" with photos showing areas of severe waterlogging - and uprooted traffic lights in the city.
An early morning call was set for 4.30 - we leave at 5.20 for the train to Agra!
Thursday 21st October - Shimla 2
Free day in Shimla - some people went off on an organised excursion, while others made their own arrangements with local drivers. Steve wanted to see the highest cricket pitch (in the world?) but was disappointed that the road to get there was virtually impassable.
With ready access to loos still a major concern, we decided to have a look at those parts of Shimla which we missed yesterday - starting with Scandal Point and Christ Church.
We then walked up steeply to Jakhoo Hill - the highest point in Shimla at 2455m with its temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman (The Monkey God!). We had been given dire warnings about the monkeys - pestering for food, stealing sunglasses and hats, and even picking the pockets of unwary visitors - but, although there were lots around and they were noisy, they were not really aggressive.
The impressive-looking statue (from lower down the hill) was being renovated and covered in scaffolding, while the temple was .... another temple. There were some good views of the surrounding hills.
After a light lunch in town, we revisited the Mall, looking for bookshops and information about the KSRailway or local maps, but there was little available so we headed back to the hotel for more r and r (and a swim / whirlpool).
Dinner with Dave and Celeste (who supplied the photo above)
We were really looking forward to this part of the holiday - we thought that Shimla would be the highlight of the trip and were very disappointed that we could not make the best use of our time there. Lessons learned?
With ready access to loos still a major concern, we decided to have a look at those parts of Shimla which we missed yesterday - starting with Scandal Point and Christ Church.
We then walked up steeply to Jakhoo Hill - the highest point in Shimla at 2455m with its temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman (The Monkey God!). We had been given dire warnings about the monkeys - pestering for food, stealing sunglasses and hats, and even picking the pockets of unwary visitors - but, although there were lots around and they were noisy, they were not really aggressive.
The impressive-looking statue (from lower down the hill) was being renovated and covered in scaffolding, while the temple was .... another temple. There were some good views of the surrounding hills.
After a light lunch in town, we revisited the Mall, looking for bookshops and information about the KSRailway or local maps, but there was little available so we headed back to the hotel for more r and r (and a swim / whirlpool).
Dinner with Dave and Celeste (who supplied the photo above)
We were really looking forward to this part of the holiday - we thought that Shimla would be the highlight of the trip and were very disappointed that we could not make the best use of our time there. Lessons learned?
Wednesday 20th October - Shimla
We were hoping for a slightly more relaxing day today - with a half day tour of Shimla on the schedule. The headline article in the local paper did not bode well ...
"PUBLIC CONVENIENCE NOT CONVENIENT IN CAPITAL CITY"
"For a place like Shimla, which is thronged by both domestic as well as international tourists every year, the sanitation scenario is not too satisfying, rather it presents a picture of utter neglect...."
a situation which we became acutely aware of later in the day .....
Shimla was the Summer HQ of British India for many years - and witnessed many important events.
Our first call was at the Vice Regal's Lodge from where the whole of India was governed at one time - and several important documents (eg Partition in 1947) were signed. It is now a research institute for post-doctoral students of Social Science.
All was going well until half way through the guided tour of its faded grandeur when I sensed that all was not well, and a hasty visit to a local convenience confirmed the worst fears. Thanks to all who offered to send loo roll as a matter of urgency, but in this case, a couple of pages of the Hindustani Times saved the day.
Spent the rest of the day keeping a close eye on the loo facilities. After an interesting taxi ride, we visited a Hindu temple which offered good views of the city and its hills. I caused a stir at Clarke's Hotel - where we were booked for buffet lunch - by refusing all offers of food (the chef even offered to cook me something to order, but I stuck to the mineral water).
We strolled up the Mall after lunch, and abandoned the group at Scandal Point and walked back down the road to the hotel.
After a couple of hours of sleep, we joined 2 Keiths, Carol and Heidi for dinner (2 slices of toast for me!). Heidi was also on a restricted diet - for much the same reasons. We enjoyed a pleasant evening discussing railways, books, Switzerland and the M25.
Feeling much better later on!
"PUBLIC CONVENIENCE NOT CONVENIENT IN CAPITAL CITY"
"For a place like Shimla, which is thronged by both domestic as well as international tourists every year, the sanitation scenario is not too satisfying, rather it presents a picture of utter neglect...."
a situation which we became acutely aware of later in the day .....
Shimla was the Summer HQ of British India for many years - and witnessed many important events.
Our first call was at the Vice Regal's Lodge from where the whole of India was governed at one time - and several important documents (eg Partition in 1947) were signed. It is now a research institute for post-doctoral students of Social Science.
All was going well until half way through the guided tour of its faded grandeur when I sensed that all was not well, and a hasty visit to a local convenience confirmed the worst fears. Thanks to all who offered to send loo roll as a matter of urgency, but in this case, a couple of pages of the Hindustani Times saved the day.
Spent the rest of the day keeping a close eye on the loo facilities. After an interesting taxi ride, we visited a Hindu temple which offered good views of the city and its hills. I caused a stir at Clarke's Hotel - where we were booked for buffet lunch - by refusing all offers of food (the chef even offered to cook me something to order, but I stuck to the mineral water).
We strolled up the Mall after lunch, and abandoned the group at Scandal Point and walked back down the road to the hotel.
After a couple of hours of sleep, we joined 2 Keiths, Carol and Heidi for dinner (2 slices of toast for me!). Heidi was also on a restricted diet - for much the same reasons. We enjoyed a pleasant evening discussing railways, books, Switzerland and the M25.
Feeling much better later on!
Monday, November 8, 2010
Tuesday 19th October - By rail to Shimla
We left our hotel at 6.20 this morning - clutching our packed breakfasts - to catch the 7.20 Shatabdi express service (2011) from Delhi to Kalka.
On arrival at Kalka at around 11.50, we transferred to the narrow-gauge, World Heritage listed Kalka - Shimla railway (the "toy" train) for the 90 km, five and a half hour journey into the foothills of the Shivalik Himalaya at Shimla (not forgetting to pick up our (vegetarian!) packed lunch). Our train was the 12.10 Himalayan Queen Service.
We arrived in Shimla just before 6pm and transferred by taxi to our hotel - The Oberoi Cecil - for a 3 night stay. Very nice hotel ! Dinner with Ian and Bev.
On arrival at Kalka at around 11.50, we transferred to the narrow-gauge, World Heritage listed Kalka - Shimla railway (the "toy" train) for the 90 km, five and a half hour journey into the foothills of the Shivalik Himalaya at Shimla (not forgetting to pick up our (vegetarian!) packed lunch). Our train was the 12.10 Himalayan Queen Service.
We arrived in Shimla just before 6pm and transferred by taxi to our hotel - The Oberoi Cecil - for a 3 night stay. Very nice hotel ! Dinner with Ian and Bev.
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